追尋失落的圓明園
A Paradise Lost—The Imperial Garden Yuanming Yuan
作者介紹:汪榮祖,西雅圖華盛頓大學歷史學博士。歷任美國弗吉尼亞州立大學教授、澳洲國立大學訪問研究員?,F(xiàn)任臺灣“中央大學”人文研究中心主任、美國弗吉尼亞州立大學榮譽教授。
內(nèi)容簡介:第一部以西方語言寫就的全面介紹圓明園從緣起、興建、擴充,到其被毀、重修等盛衰榮辱的歷史,更以珍貴照片及原創(chuàng)手繪介紹圓明園的布局、功能等。
The Ancestral Shrine showing the Anyou Palace (top). Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“鴻慈永祜”,安佑宮位于上方。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
Unlike most other structures in the garden, the construction materials of the Ancestral Shrine were mainly stone and marble. In the distance from the entrance, one could observe two pairs of “
ornamental columns” (huabiao) in front of the Memorial Archways (paifang), which was crowned with light yellow glazed tiles and eaves. The columns, each standing twenty feet high and about a hundred feet apart, were surrounded by four marble pillars carved with dragons, clouds, and flames alongside a marble balustrade and a stone animal. Five parallel marble bridges crossed a moat with three screen-shaped memorial arch ways that led to the palatial gates. Each bridge was guarded by two stone Chinese unicorns, or kylin (qilin, a Chinese unicorn symbolizing auspiciousness), approximately 174 centimeters tall on 98-centimeter-high stone platforms. The gates led the way to the shrine’s tall, reddish outer wall, which was crowned with a yellow glazed tile roof. The inner wall was also red and covered by a yellow glazed tile roof. Inside the courtyard were the waiting rooms. The main gate stood on top of a splendid marble terrace ascended by marble stairs and
balustrade, and a pair of bridges stretched across a moat. On both sides of a vast courtyard were guestrooms, two large incense burners, and a pair of pavilions with double roofs. The main shrine palace stood on a large marble terrace ascended by five stairways escorted by bronze animal figures. The central stairway, which was richly decorated with carved dragons, was reserved for the emperor’s use only. Qianlong designated it the Most Kindness and Eternal Blessing (Hongci Yonghu).
不同于許多圓明園內(nèi)其他建筑,“鴻慈永祜”的建筑材料主要是石頭和大理石。離大門有一段距離的地方,可以看到在牌坊前有兩對華表,頂部是淡黃色的琉璃瓦和檐。每一柱華表都有20英尺(約6米)高,彼此之間有大約100英尺(約305米)的距離,這些華表的四周有四個大理石護欄和一只石獸以及雕飾了龍、云和火焰的臺柱。五條平行的大理石橋梁跨越護城河之后,就是三座用作屏飾的牌坊,坐落在宮門之前。每一座橋梁都有兩只大約174厘米高的石麒麟(一種象征吉祥的中國獨角獸),坐鎮(zhèn)在98厘米高的石臺上。宮門通往主殿堂的淡紅色外城高墻,上方是黃色琉璃瓦的屋頂,至于內(nèi)城墻也是紅色,配上黃色琉璃瓦的屋頂。庭院里面的空間是用來等候覲見的地方。主宮門建在富麗堂皇的大理石平臺上,可扶護欄拾級而上。另有一對橋梁橫跨一條護城河。在寬廣的庭院兩側(cè)是供賓客留宿的房間,院中有一對很大的香爐和兩座有疊檐的亭子。主殿坐落在一個很大的大理石平臺上,有五級石階可拾級而上,石階由青銅獸守護。位于中間精雕細琢的龍雕石階,只有皇帝才能行走。乾隆命名為“鴻慈永祜”。
Inside the shrine, Qianlong placed the portraits and name tablets of Yongzheng and Kangxi to show his affection for his deceased forefathers. After Qianlong died, his own portrait and memorial tablet were placed here for remembrance and worshipping by his successor. The shrine, to which the Manchu royal family always attached great importance, would have been considered a truly exceptional structure in any type of garden.
在此殿堂的內(nèi)部,乾隆擺放了雍正和康熙的畫像和牌位,以表達他對已經(jīng)故去的父祖的追思。在乾隆死后,他自己的畫像和牌位也由他的繼位人擺放在這里以便紀念和供奉。清朝皇族非常重視這座殿堂;不過在園林當中建筑這樣的大型宗廟,極為罕見。
To the east of the Ancestral Shrine was the Faculty Club (Huifang Shuyuan). It consisted of such structures as the Expressing Excellence Gallery (Shuzao Xuan) in the front, the Conceiving Distance Chapel (Hanyuan Zhai) in the rear, the Relaxation Room (Sui’an Shi) to the west, and the Lofty Clouds Chamber (Zhuoyun Lou) to the east. Further east from the Faculty Club was the Half-Moon Gallery (Meiyue Xuan). South of the gallery between an arbor and a chamber stood an open-air structure, about three column wide, facing the uniquely designed scene called Traces of Snow on a Broken Bridge (Duanqiao Canxue). The bridge was made of broken rocks in dozens of different shapes, some of which are still visible at the present-day ruin site.
在“鴻慈永祜”的東邊是“匯芳書院”。它由以下的建筑群組成:抒藻軒在前方,涵遠齋在后方,隨安室在西邊,倬云樓在東邊。從“匯芳書院”再往東走就是眉月軒,南面有一座名叫“斷橋殘雪”的露天建筑,處于一個涼亭和樓閣之間,約有三楹寬。這座斷橋是由數(shù)十種不同形式的碎石建造出來,殘存的部分橋身仍然可以在今天的遺址中看到。
Below the Faculty Club was a religious complex that emulated the famous Lamaist temple known as Yonghe Gong in Beijing. It had three sections: two rows of seven-column chambers connected by two hallways to the west; three rows of seven-column chambers in the middle; and the Good Omen Palace (Ruiying Gong) comprising three Buddhist-style courts to the east. Qianlong designated this Buddhist compound the Dazzling Eaves under Heaven (Ritian Linyu).
在“匯芳書院”的下方是宗教建筑群,仿照北京著名的喇嘛寺廟雍和宮而建造,包含三個部分:西邊是兩排七楹寬的樓閣,由兩道門廊連接;三排七楹寬的樓閣坐落在中間;東邊是由三座具佛教風格庭院組成的瑞應宮。乾隆給這個佛教大院命名為“日天琳宇”。
The main structure of Lianxi Lechu (Scholar’s Wonderland). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
濂溪樂處的主建筑。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
East of the religious complex was the largest scenic point, approximately twelve acres, with several magnificent pieces of architecture, including the nine-column principal structure surrounded by hills and
brooks. One of the unique features of this scene was the great number of lotuses floating in shallow water. It is well known to Chinese literati that the great Song philosopher Zhou Dunyi (Zhou Lianxi) authored the celebrated essay “Passion for Lotus” (“AilianShuo”) to compare the lotus to gentlemen. Qianlong appreciated the essay and thus dubbed this scene the Scholar’s Wonderland (Lianxi Lechu) to indicate that he would be content to be surrounded by well-bred gentlemen.
在宗教建筑群的東邊是最大的景點,占地約12英畝(約73畝),頗有一些華麗的建筑,包括以九根柱子作為主要屋架的建筑,四周有山丘和小溪圍繞。這個景點的特色是在淺水上漂浮著大量的蓮花,對中國文人來說,宋代大儒周敦頤(號濂溪)曾寫出為人贊揚的《愛蓮說》,文章以蓮花來比喻君子。乾隆很欣賞這篇文章,因此給這個景點命名為“濂溪樂處”,以顯示他愿意廁身于許多有修養(yǎng)的君子當中。
Walking further to the east in a bookish journey, we observe the Sounds of Wood and Water (Shuimu Mingse) with a Western-style water wheel pumping water into a room. The sounds of water, sese, lingling, echoing the rustling woods, helped the emperor attain a lofty realm which combines kindness with wisdom.
根據(jù)文獻上記載的路線再繼續(xù)往東走,我們就會看到“水木明瑟”,那里有西式的水車把水引入室中。泠泠的水聲附和著瑟瑟的木聲,可以幫助皇帝達到仁與智的至高境界。
Several rural scenes appeared around the northern end of the original Yuanming Yuan. The Yongzheng Emperor first created a farm in the garden to remind himself of the daily basis of rural China, where millions of subjects lived. His Majesty could observe from a pavilion how farm work was performed. Later he added to this rice field a silkworm farm and a
brocade and
dye mill. Ever since the Wei-Jin Period, between the third and fourth centuries, the Chinese literati continuously tried to find their own distinct character in the expression of garden design in general and flower arrangement and rock formation in particular. While some wanted to show their unique ambition, others wanted to demonstrate their
stainless,
magnanimous, or
aloof personalities. Character and taste have long since been considered the “soul” of a garden and of its owner. Clearly mindful of his responsibility to
diligently attend to government affairs and the people’s welfare, Yongzheng purposefully created a farm scene inside his beloved imperial garden to show his concern about the people as well as to underline his benevolent rule. It seems quite clear that the emperor used this theme to make a political claim to be a conscientious ruler of the majority farming population as well as to rehearse the self-serving Confucian moral ideology.
在圓明園本園的北端附近有幾處鄉(xiāng)野的景色,雍正皇帝首先在園林里開辟農(nóng)地,來提醒他自己有數(shù)以億萬的子民是過著農(nóng)村的日常生活?;实郾菹驴梢詮臎鐾ど嫌^察到農(nóng)務是如何進行的。除稻田外,他后來又增設(shè)了養(yǎng)蠶場和織染坊。早在公元3世紀和4世紀的魏晉時期,中國的文人就透過整體園林的宏觀設(shè)計與花卉和疊石的微觀布置,來不斷嘗試尋找他們自我獨特的個性。有一些文人想表達他們非凡的抱負,另有一些人則想展現(xiàn)出他們純潔、崇高或孤傲的個性。個性與品位長久以來被視為園林和園主的靈魂。雍正十分注意他的責任,勤奮政務和關(guān)懷人民的福祉。他有意在自己心愛的御園里建造農(nóng)地景象,就是要表現(xiàn)出他關(guān)心子民以及強調(diào)他的仁政?;实酆苊黠@利用這個主題作政治宣言,來表示他是一個廣大農(nóng)業(yè)人口的正直的統(tǒng)治者,同時表現(xiàn)自己追求儒家的道德理想。
Qianlong designated five rural scenes. The one at the southeast neighborhood of the Sounds of Wood and Water (Shuimu Mingse) was dominated by a house in the shape of a gigantic Chinese ideogram, tian, meaning “rice field,” which the emperor dubbed Simple Life in Quietude (Danbo Ningjing), with the Rising Sunshine Chamber (Shuguang Lou) at its side. There were four other rural scenes. The Bountiful Farms (Duojia Ruyun) was a large rice field with a few small houses. The Orchid Fragrance over the Water (Yingshui Lanxiang) consisted of rice fields, weaving mills, and fishing ponds. The Fish-Leaping and Bird-Flying (Yuyue Yuanfei) contained numerous village huts surrounded by a stream. And the Northernmost Mountain Village (Beiyuan Shancun), originally known as Teaching Farming Gallery (Kenong Xuan), contained rows of small yet elegant chambers and villas on both sides of a narrow river.
乾隆給五個鄉(xiāng)野景點取名。緊貼在“水木明瑟”東南方,坐落著一幢外觀呈巨大的中國象形文字“田”的房子,乾隆稱之為“澹泊寧靜”,旁邊就是曙光樓。另外還有四個鄉(xiāng)野景點:“多稼如云”附有幾間小房子和一大片稻田;“映水蘭香”是由稻田、織坊和魚塘所組成;“魚躍鳶飛”包含了幾幢被溪流環(huán)繞的村舍;原名為“課農(nóng)軒”的“北遠山村”,擁有幾排位于一條窄河兩岸小而雅致的樓閣和宅第。
On the east side of the Northernmost Mountain Village arose the Sitting Rocks and the Winding Stream (Zuoshi Linliu), which included a replica of the celebrated Orchid Pavilion (Lan Ting) located at Shaoxing in Zhejiang Province. The Orchid Pavilion was the garden estate of the great East Jin calligrapher Wang Xizhi (321–379), who spent time there in the company of scholarly friends drinking wine, practicing calligraphy, and composing poems. When reciting poems outdoors, they sat on rocks and set their drinking cups in the nearby stream to see which cup would float downstream.Qianlong, a poet in his own right, delighted in recreating Wang’s pleasure. Other structures to enrich the scene included the Clear Sound Pavilion (Qingyin Ge) and the All-Happy Garden (Tongle Yuan), where Qianlong dined frequently. Directly
adjacent to this pavilion and garden was the Curving Courtyard and Lotus Pond (Quyuan Fenghe), modeled after the famed lotus view from Hangzhou’s West Lake. A nine-hole bridge (jiukong qiao)
bisected the large rectangular pond. The three-mile-long left bank was also a replica of the famous Su Dongpo Bank in the West Lake. These are the scenes that Qianlong brought back to the Yuanming Yuan from his southern tours.
在“北遠山村”的東邊冒出“坐石臨流”,其中復制了一座位于浙江紹興的著名的蘭亭。蘭亭是東晉大書法家王羲之(公元321—379)的莊園,他在里面與名士朋友結(jié)伴飲酒、練習書法和作詩。當他們在戶外吟詩的時候,會坐在石上并把他們的酒杯放在旁邊的小溪里,看哪一只杯子會浮在溪上順流而下。亦有詩人之資的乾隆樂于重現(xiàn)王羲之的雅興。其他用來充實這個景點的建筑包括清音閣和同樂園,后者是乾隆經(jīng)常用膳的地方。緊貼這座蘭亭和園林的是“曲院風荷”,乃是參照杭州西湖著名的蓮花景而建,九孔橋則把這個巨大的長方形湖泊一分為二。3英里(約4.8公里)長的左岸也是仿照西湖著名的蘇堤而建。這些景觀都是乾隆下江南之后引入圓明園的。
The Majestic Sunset-Tinted Peaks of the West Hills (Xifeng Xiuse) was located at the northeast corner of the original Yuanming Yuan. It featured a sumptuous chamber designed especially for the Yongzheng Emperor to admire the sunset. The design was to bring the magnificent mountain view of sunsets into the broad and bright windows on the west side of the chamber, a good example of the “view borrowing” technique. In fact, as Yongzheng’s poem indicates, this design borrowed from the sunset view at the famed Mountain Lu (Lu Shan) in Jiangxi Province. East of this viewing chamber was a larger structure named the Hanyuan Zhai surrounded by magnolia trees, which fill the air with fragrance when they blossom. Northeast of the chapel was the delightful Admiring Fish at the Flourish Haven (Huagang Guanyu), built to observe countless gold fish in a stream. At the foot of a nearby hill was the Cave of the Three Fairies (Sanxian Dong), which was large enough to accommodate two hundred persons. Qianlong gladly included this in his Forty Views.
“西峰秀色”坐落在圓明園本園的東北角,它是一座華麗的樓閣,特別為了雍正皇帝欣賞日落而設(shè)計。它的設(shè)計是要把壯觀的日落山景帶入軒爽明敞的西窗內(nèi),是“借景”技巧最佳的例子。事實上,正如雍正詩中所示,這個設(shè)計正是借取江西廬山著名的日落景色。在這座觀景樓的東邊是名為“涵遠齋”的巨大建筑,四周玉蘭樹環(huán)繞,當花朵盛放之時,到處飄香。在這座禮堂的東北方是宜人的“花港觀魚”,用來觀賞溪中無數(shù)的金魚。在附近山腳處就是“三仙洞”,這是足以容納兩百人的寬廣空間。乾隆把此景也列入他的四十景之內(nèi)。
Let us now turn our gaze to the southeastern edge of the garden entrance to find a small garden designated as the secluded Deep Vault of Heaven (Dongtian Shenchu). It was the campus of the royal school and comprised rows of elegant classrooms and dormitories concealed in a bamboo grove, orchids, and pine trees. Both Yongzheng and Qianlong attended school here when they were princes.
現(xiàn)在讓我們再把視線轉(zhuǎn)到圓明園宮門的東南邊,就會發(fā)現(xiàn)有一座名叫“洞天深處”的幽靜的小小園林。它是皇族學塾的園區(qū),由幾排藏于竹林中的教室和宿舍所組成,雜植有蘭花和松樹。雍正和乾隆仍然是皇子的時候,就曾經(jīng)在這里上過學。
編輯推薦:
宏觀上呈現(xiàn)圓明園布局、擴建、焚毀、修復的漫長變遷,亦于細節(jié)處勾勒園林建筑、生活起居與日常運行的點滴,回溯“萬園之園”曾經(jīng)的苦難與輝煌。
《追尋失落的圓明園》
汪榮祖(著) 鐘志恒(譯)
外語教學與研究出版社
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