追尋失落的圓明園
A Paradise Lost—The Imperial Garden Yuanming Yuan
作者介紹:汪榮祖,西雅圖華盛頓大學歷史學博士。歷任美國弗吉尼亞州立大學教授、澳洲國立大學訪問研究員?,F(xiàn)任臺灣“中央大學”人文研究中心主任、美國弗吉尼亞州立大學榮譽教授。
內(nèi)容簡介:第一部以西方語言寫就的全面介紹圓明園從緣起、興建、擴充,到其被毀、重修等盛衰榮辱的歷史,更以珍貴照片及原創(chuàng)手繪介紹圓明園的布局、功能等。
The imperial bedroom and seraglio in the Nine Continents were forbidden ground, and yet the European visitor Father Attiret was able to see them. He found there “all the most beautiful things that can be imagined as to furniture, ornaments, and paintings.... [There are] the most valuable sorts of wood; varnished works, of China and Japan; ancient vases of
porcelain; silks, and cloth of gold and silver. They have there brought together, all that. Art and good taste could add to the riches of nature”. In 1860, when the European invaders seized the garden, a British officer saw the royal living quarters where “a large niche in the wall, curtained over and covered with silk mattresses, served for the bed; and a sloping platform enabled His Majesty to mount into it.” Under a pillow, the Briton noticed “a small silk handkerchief with sundry writings in the vermillion pencil about the barbarians.” Near the bed on a table there were “pipes and other Chinese luxuries”. This description at least reflects the setup of His Majesty’s bedroom during the Xianfeng Emperor’s time.
在“九州”里的皇帝寢宮和后宮都是禁地,不過歐洲傳教士王致誠神甫還是得以親眼目睹。他發(fā)現(xiàn)這里“有所有可以想象到的美麗事物,像家具、裝飾、繪畫??(這里)有最珍貴的各種各樣的木料、中國和日本的漆器、古代的陶瓷花瓶、絲綢和金絲銀縷——所有這一切全都會聚在這里。藝術和高雅的品位為自然的美景錦上添花”。1860年,當歐洲的侵略者搶掠這座宮殿時,一位英國軍官看到這座皇家起居住所“墻上有很大的壁龕,簾帳垂蓋,鋪滿絲綢墊子,用作睡床,一個傾斜的平臺讓皇帝可以走上去”。這個不列顛軍官還看到枕頭下“一條絲質手帕上,用朱砂筆記載著各種關于‘野蠻人’的介紹”;靠近床的桌子上有“一些煙斗和其他中式奢侈品”。這個描述至少反映出咸豐時代皇帝起居室的擺設。
Louyue Kaiyun (Engraved Moon and Unfolding Clouds) showing Ji’en Tang (the Memorial Hall) in the background. Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“鏤月開云”,紀恩堂位于背景中。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
On the second
islet of the Nine Continents sat the famous Peony Terrace (Mudan Tai), which Qianlong eventually designated the scene of the Engraved Moon and Unfolding Clouds (Louyue Kaiyun). Its main hall in the front was built using precious nanmu (Phoebe nanmu) timber with tiles in splendid green and gold, yielding a look of resplendence. The elegant-looking gallery behind the main hall was named the Imperial Orchid Fragrance (Yulanfen). Further back was an expansive complex of structures consisting of the Memorial Hall (Ji’en Tang) in the middle, the Nourishing Simplicity Study (Yangsu Shuwu) to the west, and the Resting Cloud Chamber (Qiyun Lou) to the east. The central theme of this scene was the peony. The great Song philosopher Zhou Dunyi (1017–1073) had designated this particular flower to symbolize riches and honor, and Kangxi identified ninety different kinds of peony in his imperial garden. Every blossom season, normally late spring, when hundreds of peonies came into bloom, the Qing emperors arrived at the terrace to observe the magnificent “embroidery view” against the background of enormous green pines. It is not at all surprising that Qianlong found the Peony Terrace his favorite place to compose poems.
在“九州”上的第二個島矗立著有名的牡丹臺,后來乾隆把這處景觀命名為“鏤月開云”。它的主殿是用珍貴的楠木所建造,鋪上華麗的金綠二色磚瓦,營造出金碧輝煌的外觀。在這座主殿后面堂皇氣派的樓座稱為“御蘭芬”。再往后是寬廣的建筑綜合體,中間是紀恩堂,往西走是養(yǎng)素書屋,往東走是棲云樓,這個景觀的中心主題是牡丹。宋代大哲學家周敦頤稱這種特別的花象征富貴和殊榮,康熙在他的宮苑里識別出90種不同品種的牡丹。每一次牡丹花盛開的季節(jié)——通常是晚春時分,數(shù)以千計的花朵怒放,清朝的皇帝會親臨牡丹臺去欣賞以龐大青松為背景的有如華麗錦繡般的風景,所以乾隆把牡丹臺作為他最喜歡作詩的地方一點都不會讓人感到意外。
The remaining seven islets of the Nine Continents complete the circle in the following order. At the northeast corner of Rear Lake was the Natural Scenery (Tianran Tuhua), which is also the name of its principal structure standing in the middle with two wings. Its west side included a pavilion and a chamber, and its east side included the Five-Fortunes Hall (Wufu Tang). In front of this scenery extended a large courtyard featuring numerous phoenix trees in the midst of a bamboo grove.
其余圍成一圈的“九州”七島是這樣排列的:在后湖的東北角是“天然圖畫”,這也是坐落在這里的主建筑之名,位于正中,有左右兩翼,西邊包含了一閣一樓,而東邊就包括了五福堂。在這個景觀的前面,伸展出一個很大的庭院,它的特色是在竹林的中間有非常多的桐樹。
Tianran Tuhua (Natural Scenery), with the principal structure in the middle facing a lake. Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“天然圖畫”,包括位于中央朝向湖澤的主建筑。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
Crossing a stream over a flat bridge from the site of the Five-Fortunes Hall, one arrived at the Blue Phoenix-Tree Academy (Bitong Shuyuan). Its main structure, facing south, included a three-column front house, a five-
column main court, and a five-column rear court. Tidy Wutong trees grew on each side of the courtyards to provide long shade over the houses, which appeared to be hidden. Qianlong is said to have loved coming here to hear the sounds of rain, which inspired him to write poems. Westward from the academy was the Gentle Clouds Cover All (Ciyun Puhu). With the unique Bell Tower (Zhong Lou) at its back and slightly to the west, the three-column-wide main front court named the Happy Buddhist Ground (Huanxi Fochang) faced the Rear Lake to the south. To the north of the court, beside a Daoist shrine, was a three-story chamber in which Avalokitesvara and Guan Gong, the legendary military hero, were worshipped. To the east of the main court stood the Court for the God of Rain (Longwang Dian) for
worshipping the Yuanming Yuan’s Dragon King named Zhaofu. The name Gentle Clouds Cover All obviously refers to the
merciful protection over all souls.
從五福堂出來后,從一條平直的小橋上跨越小溪,就會抵達“碧桐書院”。它的主建筑朝南,包含了三楹寬的前宅、五楹寬的主殿和五楹寬的后殿。梧桐樹整齊種植在院子四周,綠陰張蓋,宅院顯得好像被藏了起來。據(jù)說乾隆很愛到這里來聆聽雨聲,以激發(fā)他寫詩的靈感。從“碧桐書院”往西走就是“慈云普護”,在它后方是獨一無二的鐘樓,再稍微往西一點,是一座三楹寬的主前院叫做“歡喜佛場”,面對后湖并朝向南方。在“慈云普護”北面的道士廬旁邊是三層樓高的樓閣,里面供奉觀音大士和關帝圣君。從“慈云普護”這座主殿往東走就是一座龍王殿,是用來供奉圓明園里名叫昭福的龍王?!按仍破兆o”這個名字很明顯地是要保佑所有生靈的意思。
Bitong Shuyuan (Blue Phoenix-Tree Academy). Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“碧桐書院”。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
One left this religious land over a stone bridge westward to the Sky in Reflections (Shangxia Tianguang). Its main structure, a two-story
chamber overlooking the Rear Lake, was a replica of the famous Yueyang Chamber (Yueyang Lou) at the Dongting Lake in the central Yangzi valley. On both sides of the chamber extended two narrow banks like rainbows, and at the middle of them stood a hexagonal arbor. Behind the chamber was a compound of smaller structures called the Silent Courtyard (Ping’an Yuan), where the Nine Continents made a southwest turn to the islet named the Apricot-Flower Villa (Xinghua Chunguan).
離開這個有宗教味之地,通過一條石橋往西走,就到了“上下天光”。它的主建筑是眺望后湖的兩層閣樓,乃是依照洞庭湖上著名的岳陽樓復制而來。這座樓的兩側延伸至兩邊的狹岸,就像垂虹駕湖,其中還建造了一座八角形的涼亭。在這座樓的后面是一座叫做“平安院”的小型庭院。這里是“九州”在西南方轉往名為“杏花春館”小島的地方。
Principal building on Shangxia Tianguang (Sky in Reflections). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“上下天光”里的主建筑。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
Rugu Hanjin (Harmony of the Present with the Past). Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“茹古涵今”。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
The villa was composed of the Apricot Grove (Xinghua Cun), the Spring Rain Gallery (Chunyu Xuan), the Green Shady Hall (Cuiwei Tang), the Restrained Chapel (Yi Zhai), and the Water Reflection Chapel (Jingshui Zhai). Yongzheng had created this scene, while Qianlong embellished it and designated it as one of the Forty Views. Qianlong liked to come here in late spring when flowers blossomed, and he described the view as splendid as the “rosy rays of light”.
這座別館是由杏花村、春雨軒、翠微堂、抑齋和鏡水齋所組成,這組景觀是由雍正下令建造,在乾隆時將之美化,并命名為四十景之一。乾隆喜歡在杏花盛開的晚春時節(jié)來到這里,他以“春深花發(fā),爛然如霞”來形容這里的景色。
The islet on which stood the Apricot-Flower Villa was connected to the Magnanimous World (Tantan Dangdang) by the Blue Wave Bridge (Bilan Qiao). Its front structure had three sections: the Pure Heart Hall (Suxin Tang) in the middle, the Knowing-Fish Arbor (Zhiyu Ting) to the northeast, and the Double Beauty Chapel (Shuangjia Zhai) to the northwest. Behind the front structure was the Splendid Wind and Moon (Guangfeng Jiyue). The unique feature of this scene was the square fish pond, which was very much to the pleasure of Qianlong who cited in a poem the saying of the great Daoist philosopher Zhuangzi: “See how the minnows are darting about! Such is the pleasure that fish enjoy.” South of this scene, the islet named the Harmony of the Past with the Present (Rugu Hanjin) sat at the southwest corner of the Rear Lake and connected by bridges to the main living quarters and to the Eternal Spring Fairy Hall (Changchun Xianguan). All galleries, chapels, and studios here were built in a large square lot connected by delightful winding corridors. In designating this scene, Qianlong quoted the great Tang poet Du Fu: “While I hold my contemporaries with no contempt, I have my affection for the ancients”. The scenes on the nine islets arguably constituted the best of the Forty Views.
“杏花春館”所在的小島是由碧瀾橋連接到“坦坦蕩蕩”,“坦坦蕩蕩”的前院建筑有三個部分:素心堂在中間,知魚亭在東北,雙佳齋在西北。前院建筑的后面是“光風霽月”。這組景觀的獨特之處是有一個方形的魚池,此池最得乾隆的歡心。他在詩里就引用莊子的話:“鰷魚出游從容,是魚之樂也?!痹谶@個景觀的南方,可以見到名為“茹古涵今”的小島坐落在后湖的西南角,并由多座橋梁連接到主要的居住宅院和“長春仙館”。所有樓座、殿堂、畫室都建造成很大的四方形,由許多宜人的回廊連接。乾隆在給這個景觀命名的時候,曾引用唐代大詩人杜甫的詩句“不薄今人愛古人”。有人認為,“九州”之島的景觀是四十景當中最漂亮的。
Tantan Dangdang (Magnanimous World). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“坦坦蕩蕩”。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
Wanfang Anhe showing Ping’an Yuan adjacent to the Swastika House. Plan by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
“萬方安和”,平安院位于字房的旁邊。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
Across the Nine Continents to the west was the Swastika House. Qianlong designated it as the Universal Peace (Wanfang Anhe), with houses constructed in a
swastika shape on a lake.19 Cool in summer and warm in winter, the houses were built on a solid brick foundation surrounded by water. Here the Qianlong Emperor was especially fascinated by the inverted golden reflections of the swastika formation in the lake under the autumn moon. The golden reflections recalled the brilliant light of the Buddha. Other scenic sites with
ostensible religious significance included the better-known Cloud-Living on the Moon Land (Yuedi Yunju), a secluded enclosure surrounded by short red walls and green pines and sitting at the northern end of the Drill Field. Its main building faced a stream in the front and was backed by a small hill. This was a favorite place for members of the royal family to perform their Buddhist worship.
跨越“九州”往西走就是字樓,乾隆命之為“萬方安和”,房子建于湖上,成字狀。由于房子是用堅固的磚塊建成并有水環(huán)繞,所以冬暖夏涼,乾隆皇帝在此曾被秋月下字漂浮水面上下對映的金色倒影所吸引,這個金色倒影被稱為“佛光普照”。其他外觀具有宗教意義的風光景點,包括最著名的“月地云居”,由矮紅墻和翠松包圍環(huán)繞,隱藏在一個大操場的北端。其主建筑前方,面臨一條小溪,后方依靠一座小山丘,這是皇室成員念經(jīng)拜佛的理想之處。
Just north of the Swastika House was the Peach-Blossom Cove (Taohua Wu). This scene recalls the famous legend invented by the third-century poet Tao Qian (372–427), also known as Tao Yuanming. In the legend, a fisherman loses his way and discovers a hidden paradise called the Peach-Blossom Cove in which people live happily without knowing the outside world. The fisherman returns home and tells the story, but he cannot find the cove again. The lost cove has since inspired Chinese literati into utopian thoughts of a legendary happy land. The Peach-Blossom Cove contained a series of halls and galleries. The hall named Deep Source of Peach Blossom (Taoyuan Shenchu) at the northeast end was created by Yongzheng, who was very pleased with the ingenious design and inscribed with his own calligraphy names for each chamber on the horizontal board.Qianlong designated this cove Spring Beauty at Wuling (Wuling Chunse) and selected it as one of the Forty Views.
在字樓的北方正好是桃花塢,這個景觀讓人想起公元4世紀詩人陶潛(公元372—427)——即陶淵明——所虛構出來的著名傳奇。在這個傳奇里,有一個漁夫迷路后,發(fā)現(xiàn)一個叫做桃花源的世外天堂,在那里生活的人十分快樂,對外界一無所知。這個漁夫回到家之后講述他的經(jīng)歷,但他再也找不到這個桃花源。這個失落的桃花源從此就賦予中國文人一個傳奇樂土的烏托邦想法。圓明園里的桃花塢包含了一系列的殿堂和樓座。位于東北端的殿堂稱為“桃源深處”,是雍正所建造,他非常欣賞巧妙的設計,并親自為每一個樓閣的牌匾題寫稱號。乾隆為這個塢另取名為“武陵春色”,并把它選為四十景之一。
The principal structure of Wuling Chunse (Spring Beauty at Wuling). Sketch by Joseph C. Wang and Xinbai Yu.
武陵春色的主建筑。王綽和郁欣白繪制。
The Drill Field was located at the southwest corner of the original Yuanming Yuan. It featured a review stand and a large flat field for military exercises. Qianlong designated it as the High-Reaching Mountain and Outstretched River (Shangao Shuichang). Across the Cloud-Living on the Moon Land and in the northwest corner, Qianlong spent 600,000 taels to complete the Ancestral Shrine in 1742. The main structure, called Blessing Palace (Anyou Gong), was set all the way back in the middle facing south.
大校場坐落在圓明園本園的西南角,設有一個檢閱臺和一大片平地,可供軍隊操練,乾隆命名為“山高水長”。越過“月地云居”來到西北角,是乾隆在1742年花了60萬兩白銀完成的“鴻慈永祜”,主建筑叫做“安佑宮”,處在山徑盡頭正中,朝向南方。
編輯推薦:
宏觀上呈現(xiàn)圓明園布局、擴建、焚毀、修復的漫長變遷,亦于細節(jié)處勾勒園林建筑、生活起居與日常運行的點滴,回溯“萬園之園”曾經(jīng)的苦難與輝煌。
《追尋失落的圓明園》
汪榮祖(著) 鐘志恒(譯)
外語教學與研究出版社
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