Madam Sixty Ate餐廳的兔肉闊面

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
想在香港灣仔區(qū)找一個舒適又略微高檔一點的地方吃午餐，但是卻不想去The Pawn的話，那么在這個街區(qū)（的確就是在同一個街區(qū)）如今有了一個新去處──Madam Sixty Ate。這家餐廳于6月底開張，地點在J Senses大廈。

For those looking for a cozy and slightly more upscale lunch venue in Hong Kong's Wan Chai district that's not, say, The Pawn, there's a new contender on the block (the same block, actually): Madam Sixty Ate, which opened last week in the J Senses building.
該餐廳的設計模仿了具有某些法國格調的高雅的女性起居室的風格──Madam Sixty Ate是一位虛構的女士──到處都呈現著舒適的家居氣息：從開放式廚房到印著小鳥圖案的壁紙、杯墊上可愛的動物素描。免費贈送的現烤面包也強化了這種氛圍，面包上抹的是熏黃油，也比普通黃油感覺更為親切，只是面包烤得略欠火候。

So it was a bit of a disappointment to flip to the set-lunch menu and discover only one option for each course. The two-course option is fairly priced at 148 Hong Kong dollars (US$19) and the three-course at HK$178, but the lack of choice inevitably made us reach for the pricier a la carte menu to round out our meal. Also disappointing: Coffee and tea aren't included with the set lunch.
翻開午餐套餐菜單，發(fā)現每種套餐都只有一種選擇之后，你也許會略感失望。兩道菜的套餐價格為148港幣（約19美元），三道菜套餐的價格是178港幣，算是比較公道的。但是因為缺少選擇，我們不得不拿過單點菜單來加點其他菜。令人失望的地方還有：咖啡和茶水不包括在套餐價格之內。

It's hard to pin down the restaurant's overarching theme (beyond the whimsical story of this Madam), as the menu is chockablock with flavors from all over─French, Italian, British, to name a few. We were later told that the emphasis is on the freshness of the ingredients, with everything made in the kitchen as much as possible.
很難說清楚這家餐廳的根本主題是什么（除了有關那位女士的離奇故事之外），因為菜單上的菜品囊括了所有風味──法式、意式、英式，等等。后來，我們得知，這家餐廳強調的是新鮮的用料，所有材料都盡量自己在廚房里烹制而成。

A simple appetizer, ceviche, was overcomplicated. The sight of foam was a red flag that the dish may have strayed too far from the simplicity of this Peruvian staple. The fish, usually thinly sliced, came dry and thick, overpowered by the citrus sauce and foam. At HK$95 for five small pieces of fish, we regretted taking the rare chance to try ceviche instead of going with the more commonly available pork belly, though the pork had been highly recommended to us by others.
橙汁腌魚這一道簡單的開胃菜做得太過復雜。一看盤中的醬糊就知道：烹制流程大大偏離了這道秘魯菜簡單隨意的原則。魚片照道理該切得很薄的，但我們盤中的魚片卻是厚厚的干巴巴的，而且在橙汁和醬糊里浸泡得過久。標價95港幣，端上來卻只有很小的五片魚。我們很后悔，當初不應該為了品嘗難得的橙汁腌魚，而沒有選擇常見的五花肉片，五花肉片可是有人向我們強烈推薦過的。

The mains fared much better. The chicken leg confit, part of the lunch set, was tender and deliciously infused with bacon, while the accompanying roesti (a sort of hash brown) had the comforting texture reminiscent of a bubble and squeak.
主菜要好得多。午餐套餐中的油封雞腿細嫩可口，還有些許培根的香味。和雞腿一起上桌的瑞士土豆餅口感細膩，不禁讓人想起了傳統的英國菜“卷心菜煎土豆”。

From the a la carte menu, the rabbit with papardelle (HK$180) impressed, not least because it's rare to find a rabbit dish not drenched in a heavy tomato-based sauce. This one was braised and served with a refreshing lemon foam and green-olive sauce, perfect for a hearty but not overindulgent lunch. The only complaint was that the papardelle was undercooked in parts.
單點菜單上的兔肉闊面（180港幣）讓人垂涎欲滴，要知道一般餐廳的兔肉通常都是泡在濃稠的番茄醬里的，這里則是將兔肉燉熟之后，加入了美味爽口的檸檬醬糊和綠橄欖沙司。這道菜做午餐，營養(yǎng)豐盛又不至于太過奢侈。唯一的缺憾就是闊面有的地方沒有熟透。

Dessert, included in the set lunch, was a sumptuous blood-orange crème brulee with sorbet and an anis macaroon. It was closer to custard in texture but not too heavy, thanks to the citrus flavor.
午餐套餐中包括了甜點，是華麗麗的血橙焦糖布丁配果汁冰糕和茴香蛋白杏仁餅干。焦糖布丁在口感上與牛奶蛋凍很接近，但沒有牛奶蛋凍的味道那么濃烈，這是因為其中加入了柑橘香精。

Lunch for two came in at over HK$500, and that included a 50% discount during the soft opening week, which, we weren't told, applied only to the a la carte menu. No doubt Madam Sixty Ate will be the new go-to spot for business lunches in Wan Chai, where there's a dearth of such venues. But try as Madam might to make you feel at home and welcome, the price tag on her hospitality may make you wince.
兩個人的午餐花了500港幣，還是算上了試營業(yè)第一周推出半價優(yōu)惠之后的價格。后來得知，優(yōu)惠活動只針對單點的菜肴。毫無疑問，Madam Sixty Ate將成為灣仔地區(qū)上班族解決午餐問題的新去處，這里很缺這樣的餐館。但是盡管這家餐館努力營造一種賓至如歸的感覺，其熱情好客背后的高價格讓卻令人敬而遠之。